Long History & Living Nature
At a glance, the Suwa area of Nagano may seem little more than a lake surrounded by mountains, with some urban sprawl in between. But take a closer look. You’ll see that this high-altitude basin southeast of Matsumoto is a land of long history mixed with a spectacle of living nature.
For some, Suwa is synonymous with fireworks, with displays almost every August and September evening. And the massively-popular Suwa Lake Fireworks Festival taking place on August 15. Others associate this place with 7th-Century Suwa Taisha. The four grand shrines that comprise one of Japan’s oldest centers of worship, The two shrines located southeast of the lake are referred to as the Upper Shrines, with the two Lower Shrines found on the lake’s northeast side. In winter, when the lake has frozen over and the ice begins to crack and fissure, an eerie symphony of cracking, groaning, popping sounds can be heard. It is said that this represents the crossing of the lake by the deity Tateminakata, on his way from the Upper to the Lower Shrines to see his spouse.
The land surrounding the lake is alive all year round, with no fewer than seven natural hot springs steaming up from underground. Many area hotels and ryokan offer in-house onsen baths, with other hot springs and foot baths scattered around. The mountains around Suwa offer their own special character. From ski resorts in winter and hiking in summer and, in 2014, one massive volcanic eruption compliments of Mt. Ontake. (Don’t worry, he seems to have calmed down.)
What attracts perhaps the most people to Suwa, however, is the Onbashira Festival, held once every seven years. Large groups of men drag massive cedar logs from the surrounding mountains toward town. They will then be placed at the shrines of Suwa. In the climax of the festival these men will pull the logs down the mountainsides, running alongside or riding on top, defying death as thousands of onlookers cheer and shout and gasp.
For many Visitors to Japan, Suwa area is little more than a place to pass through. But a closer look reveals a rare combination of a long, rich history and a spectacle of living nature. Pick your season and go check it out!
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