Edo Era Japan, Right Down the Road

Visiting one of the beautifully-preserved towns along the old Nakasendo road connecting Kyoto and Tokyo is on the to-do list of many visitors coming to Japan. The southern Matsumoto post towns of Tsumago and Magome garner the most attention. But there’s another fascinating slice of Edo Era Japan right down the road from Matsumoto: Narai-juku Post Town. Jump on a southbound train and in less than an hour you’ll be there.

Narai-juku was first mentioned in writing in the Shoku Nihongi, one of the earliest records of the history of Japan. The year was 713. At that time neither Edo nor the Nakasendo even existed. Instead, Narai sat along the Kisoji, the road that led pilgrims and travelers through the narrow Kiso Valley. Over time and with the creation of the Nakasendo in the 1600s Narai as a post town flourished. That old Edo Era charm still exists, and makes for an easy and unforgettable day trip.

The Highest Post Town along the Kiso Valley

Aside from its immediately obvious aesthetic allure, Narai-juku is known as the highest of the eleven post towns along the Kisoji stretch of the Nakasendo. Just to the south sits Torii-toge Pass, the highest point along the Kisoji. Passing over Torii-toge was tough and treacherous, compelling travelers to stop in Narai for the night, either right before or right after making the climb, adding to the post town’s fortunes.

South of Torii-toge is Yabuhara, a more understated old post town from where you can catch a train back to Matsumoto. 7km north of Narai-juku is the post town of Niekawa-juku. You’ll find there the old seki-sho, an Edo Era checkpoint for controlling commerce, transport and trade. The reconstruction of the seki-sho is a satisfying finish to the hike, with the train back to Matsumoto just a few minutes further up.

But of course the highlight of a trip to Narai-juku is the vibe of the post town itself. The buildings lining both sides of the road (for a full kilometer!) look much as they did centuries ago, thanks to their collective status as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Historical Buildings – a rather clunky name for this beautifully-preserved slice of Edo Era Japan, right down the road from Matsumoto.

Narai-juku on the Nakasendo Road: A Living Time Capsule